Posts Tagged With: nullabor

Esperance to Ceduna 

I’m slowly making my way back towards my homelands.  I spent a week or so in Esperance, it’s such a beautiful place. 

Having run into the devastation caused by the recent flooding in Western Australia, it was quite an adventure to get there.  I had to detour several hundred kilometres through the desert on dirt roads.  This was good though, as I usually stick to the tar, so it was something different. 

I was disappointed when I finally arrived though, to see those damn ‘free campers not welcome’ signs on the way into town.  It happens from time to time, mostly in the really touristy places.  It really is counterproductive to the town, as a ‘no free camping policy’ just tends to see my kind just drive on through.  If we’re welcome, we’ll stay and spend money in the town, not on the damn caravan parks.  I take umbrage at having to pay for a bit of ground and will avoid it at all costs, and I managed to do this in Esperance as well.  

But aside from this inconvenience, I really enjoyed spending some time here and making the most of the most beautiful beaches I’ve come across in my travels. 

Leo had a great time on the off leash dog beach.  He ran a muck! But damn, did he have fun.  The above picture is the naughtiest dog on West Beach, quite proud of himself.  
After we had soaked up the sun, sand and surf of Esperance, it was time to move on back up to Norseman and onto the Nullabor. My first crossing was an adventure and I looked forward to it.  This time though, I was kinda dreading that long, straight, lonely and endless stretch of highway.  

It wasn’t so bad though.  I had my gps set from Norseman to Ceduna and it was good to see the kilometers dropping down as I drove.  I did it pretty quick this time, only spending three nights out there.  

We had the necessary roadhouse stops to shower and refuel and I stopped for another look at the gorgeous views of the Bite. 

I even found this memorial for a man and his dog. 

The above is my feet, not fifteen minutes after I’d had a shower and scrubbed the Nullabor dust from them.  It was after this I gave up and decided to embrace my dirty feet.  I’ve grown to like having dirty feet.  I look at them and know the day has been well spent. Dirty feet are a product of adventure, of walking the earth, gaining experiences and actually living life.  I had clean feet for much too long.  Seems the dirtier my feet, the happier I am.  

I’m currently camped just outside of Ceduna, South Australia, having made my second successful journey across the Nullabor.  We’re still riding the Eyre Highway, but will soon reach its end.  This is one highway I’ll never forget, though they all hold a special place in my heart, once I’ve lived, breathed and rode the length of them.  Not my first love affair with a highway and it won’t be my last.  

This trip has been very expensive and crossing the Nullabor has left me broke for the week.  You wouldn’t believe the fuel prices out there, especially on the W.A side.  It downright hurts at times! But all good, we just get to make camp for the week.  I want to have a better look around Ceduna over the weekend and then we’ll look for a nearby campground to spend the week.  It’s a good chance to get a bit of maintenance work and simple repairs done on my car and van and I’ve already fixed a few little problems.  But on the whole, everything is running fairly well.  

Till next time, safe travels.  

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Across The Nullabor 

I’ve spent the past two and a bit days driving the iconic stretch of road known as the Nullabor.  The Eyre Highway runs 1675 kilometers from Port Augusta to Norseman. It runs across some of the most remote country in Australia. 

The Eyre is a highway of contrasting landscapes.  From the desert of the outback to the ocean of the Great Australian Bite.  It’s been a hell of an adventure and a lot of long haul driving. 

The distances and isolation of the Eyre can be a little overwhelming and intimidating at first, but it didn’t take long for the Eyre to start to feel like home.  I love nothing better than to drive a highway such as this from beginning to end. 

The only thing to break the monotony of the Eyre are the roadhouses. These function as fuel stops, bars, restaurants and a place to shower and rest.  They’re often a welcome relief from the heat and dust of the Nullabor, especially the showers! 

There is a surprising variety of wildlife out here in the desert, but so far I’ve only seen a few big goannas, lots of crows and quite a few wedge tailed eagles. These are some very impressive birds! I was really hoping to see some camels, I’ve never seem them in the wild, but no sightings so far.  

Crossing the border into Western Australia felt like a real achievement after coming all this way.  I’ve never been in the state of W.A before.  I’m happy to add another border crossing selfie to my collection.  Only states left unexplored now are Tasmania and Northern Territory.  

The 90 Mile Straight was arduous! Driving such a long distance in a entirely straight line is harder than it sounds. I found I fatigued a lot faster and needed more regular rest breaks.  But that’s the advantage of towing your home, I can always pull over for a feed and a comfy nap.  

Once I crossed the W.A border, the roadtrains got bigger, from two trailers to three.  They are a little intimidating, but you soon get used to them.  They need a lot of room and you don’t ever stop suddenly, because these large trucks take a long time to stop.  If I’m turning off into a rest area, I start indicating a kilometer up the road.  But you do hear them roaring up behind you. Being a slower car towing a van, I generally pull over at the first opportunity and just let them go.  You don’t hold these guys up! 

Time has been strange for me out here.  I’m traveling into the sun, so I’m going back in time.  Having had no mobile phone service since leaving Ceduna, I haven’t known the time in days.  I crossed into Western time today, but knowing my clocks were already out, that wasn’t much help.  Not that it matters, as on the road the only time that really matters is nature’s time.  I live by the sun, rising at dawn, sleeping at sunset. 

As I write this, I’m just under 200 kilometers from the end of the Eyre.  Still a bit of a drive to Perth, but the Nullabor will be behind me.  And to think, I’ve got to cross it again to get back! 


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